Monday, January 15, 2018

Cutting the Creole Rug


As we landed in the the Seychelles, they checked and double checked to make sure we had filled out our health form. Then the airport staff boarded the plane and checked again. They were serious about these forms and most likely super serious about the plague. I can't say I was looking forward to this. We were finally allowed off the plane and towards customs. I was one of the last off the plane and thus in the back of the line. We shuffled forward and they again took each of our temperatures. 

I finally made it to the front of the line and the customs guy (who looked incredibly like a friend of mine) asked where I had been on this trip. I briefly considered saying Abu Dhabi and Reunion (I had stayed a night in each place), and I willed him to change his question to "Where had I come from?" but in the end I had to say Madagascar because he had my passport and the Malagasy custom’s humans had not been afraid to take up an entire page with red ink.  I had barely finished the last syllable before he began waving and calling a supervisor over (He may have also been holding his breath. I guess I can't blame him). 

While we were waiting for the boss man, he told me how only two weeks before people had to be quarantined at the airport for 7 days. I imagined a yellow-beige room with a metal cot and a bed pan. Not what I had originally envisioned for my visit to this country. 

 At this point, I may have worked into the conversation that I thought he was a very attractive guy (He was. So is my friend.) while we waited. What followed was a discussion as to whether they should medically evaluate me again. They also were very concerned with where I had been for example forests.  (I guess rightly so). I finally addressed the pink elephant in the room and looked them in the eye and told them. “I don’t have the plague nor was I exposed to it.” This statement had both of them wide-eyed, mouth open and speechless but got my passport stamped and the cute guy recovered enough to wink at me as he handed my passport back and waved me on. 

The Seychelles is an archipelago of 115 islands only a few of which are inhabited by the population of 94K, making it the least populated African country. It is about 5 degrees from the equator. 

They have 3 official languages: French, English, and Seselwa. They are said to get 300K visitors a year and are famous for their turtles and rum. Supposedly the drink 114.6L of beer per capita which is only bea t out by the Czech Republic. The Seychelles was initially a French colony and then it was English. It was officially liberated in June 1976.

Stepping out of the airport after grabbing rupees, I understood immediately why people dream of coming here. It was breathtaking. Island paradise just like you would imagine.

I wasted no time as I hopped in a cab. I didn't want to give them a chance to show me the yellow-beige room. I was immediately given the information above by my driver who was incredibly informative. He also told me that it was a full moon which always equals rain. I told him I hadn't ever noticed that where I lived. He told me I probably wasn't paying attention. We drove through the only town/city in the country, Victoria. He said everything else is only a village. 

He drove me to my resort and WOW! I again discovered I am not used to fancy. Everything was taken care of perefectly, answered thoroughly and packaged in a leather bound binder. It made me feel a little bit (actually a lot) dirty and disheveled. Did I look dirty? I think the answer was emphatically yes.  My cab driver should have told me to put some makeup on or something and to brush my hair. Maybe that is what he meant when he had told me I was going to a very nice, very new place. Aaaaggghhhhh. Would they disinfect the chair I was sitting in in the lobby after I left? 

  After checking in, eating lunch poolside and changing, I decided to walk on the beach and explore. I wandered into the village and bought post cards, stamps, and cinnamon vanilla sea scrub for the bath tub.  I walked back again on the beach. On the way home I picked up beach trash and glass. This involved a somewhat epic battle that lasted over half an hour with a very large plastic bag partially buried in the sand. It was more strenuous than my later workout. I hoped that no one at the hotel witnessed it. I think they would have cancelled my reservation. "American Chick Struggles with invisible demon on beach" It was clear and stringy and I am sure that no one could see it from a distance. 

After that I went and worked out in the gym and then got ready for dinner (I was moderately afraid that I wouldn’t pass the dress code. Yes there was a dress code. This place was fancy.). 


Dinner was a traditional Creole night via buffet. As with all buffets I ate too much. I did need to try everything though. This was traditional Seychellian food. It was an important cultural experience. The sommelier convinced me to order the local rum on the rocks. It was excellent.  After dinner there was traditional dancing and one of the dancers picked me from the audience to dance. It was a LOT OF HIPS. I cannot guarantee that I made my sister proud, my middle name is still not grace, but I danced for almost an hour and it was great.  I also didn't get asked to leave because I wasn't appropriately dressed. So that is a win. 



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