Another 4 am wake up but this time to head to the beach, the Andaman coast. I don't remember the flight. Just a tap on the shoulder from the Spanish woman sitting next to me saying it was time to land.
A ride through Krabi town and I was in Ao Nang. The hostel is a tropical paradise, and I have AC and a bunk bed. As far as I am concerned, this is close to perfection. Even better The first person I met is a marine scientist who lives in San Diego. In addition to be super nice, she has been here for several days and had suggestions for me.
I walked into town and took a long boat to west Railay. I beached it for the day. Read. Swam.
Explored two caves until the bats started making ridiculous noise. At first I thought, "Oh cool bats." But then their novelty wore off as I realized there were hundreds (maybe thousands) and they didn't sound little and cute. All I could think of is that bats have rabies.
Outside one of the caves there was a urologically based shrine to the princess of Phranang cave. The local people and fisherman believe she will protect them from harm and fulfill their wishes. When their wishes are fulfilled they offer her a gift usually a lingam (wooden carved penis, one even had legs). They believe that the lingam + the holy womb will equal fertility and prosperity to the whole earth and mankind. Interestingly there is a sign that says "Do not place things of worship that are inappropriate. Please honor and respect this sacred site." Ummmm what on earth could be placed here that would be inappropriate? There are humongous wooden phalluses everywhere with varying degrees of curvature? Maybe a woman in a tank top with her knees showing? Eegads.
I returned to town and found a beach side restaurant: Pineapple curry and a pineapple shake was lunch/dinner. I am trying to vary my fruits and curries for that matter. After dinner I sat on the beach and watched the sunset. There is just something about the beach at sunset.
Tonight I developed a new bargaining technique. Ask the guy which color he prefers on you multiple times until he just wants you out of his shop so he gives it to you. Oops. Or maybe win?
Krabi has a strong Muslim influence. With a large mosque and Halal food everywhere. I believe I read somewhere that this area was initially an Arab port. despite the large population of Muslims the skimpy beach wear and alcohol consumption is well tolerated. As I walked home the call to prayer came from the mosque. Eid Mubarak.
Back at the hostel there were all kinds of amazing people with equally awesome suggestions and offers to join them. Surprisingly (not at all), tonight there is a night market.
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