Thursday, October 13, 2011

Halong Bay

For the last two days I have been on a junk cruise in halong bay (it is north of Hanoi and made of 1596 limestone islands and 7 floating villages with populations up to 200). It is currently on the ballot to be voted a natural wonder of the world.
The bus to halong bay was an experience in itself. There were 16 other people on my bus 2 americans, 4 Danes, 2 israelis, 1 Dutchman, 2 Belgians, 3 Swiss, 2 Koreans which made for interesting company. Driving north on the highway was not unlike crossing the state line from north to south Carolina (if you havent ever had this pleasure, think "jostled" & "continuous pothole"). Also when you are a Busdriver you can drive in the oncoming traffics lane as long as you have your hand constantly on the horn (I now view horns as an assertion of dominance). This however resulted in everyone in the bus being repeatedly thrown into the seat in front of them or in the floor and our luggage pelted down on us like oversize hail (why you ask was the luggage on the overhead (we will call it a shelf)? At the insistence of our driver of course).
The landscape on the drive was amazing. People working the fields, different towns and villages. A really great picture of northern Vietnam. On the drive I realized that I need to create a website or at least a photo album titled "things I carry on my bike or scooter". You think you have seen it all and a tiny women peddles by carrying more (insert something you would never carry on a bicycle here, like a pig, a large one mind you with a child as well) than would be put on a tractor trailer or at least a standard dump truck.
Half way through our 4 hr drive we stopped for a toilet break, some snacks, and to hopefully (per our guide) shop at this place where disabled kids make stuff. If you are thinking sweatshop I might be right there with you. On one hand it is nice that they are taught a trade and supposedly benefit from the proceeds. On the other I don't know how I feel about this.
We continued on and finally arrived in halong city (the front of which is graced by statues of snow white and the seven dwarfs. Which led the 3 scots that had joined us to exclaim "F$&k no! Bloody Disney" and our boat the opera. My cabin was quite nice. King sized bed and a great shower. Lunch began as wr set sail and had to be at least seven courses the highlights being pumpkin soup and dragon fruit. After lunch we visited a floating fishing village (for kayaking or boat riding) where cats are chained to posts, every floating house (~300 sq ft) had at least one dog, and all of the women of the village rowed 6 tourists at a time around while the men sat and drank beer. This particular village had a primary school and a hospital. Of note all of the houses are kept afloat by styrofoam blocks and anchored to the sea floor. We also learned the avg Vietnamese family makes 1180$ a year.
By this time it was sunset and time for the sunset cruise. Halong bay and this sunset followed by the rising of the full moon and a million stars is one of the most breathtaking things I have ever experienced. Finally the sun had set completely and the stars were twinkling, people were likely falling in love all over the boat. I was thinking whimsical and romantic thoughts. music was even potentially swelling somewhere, and from the side of the boat "HELLO!!!! BUY SOMETHING !!!!" (a la "bring out your dead" monty python holy grail style just louder) followed by: "Root beer? Opium?" Did she say opium? And root beer?? I quickly confirmed this with two other passengers and the magic had evaporated replaced by reality and hilarity.
Dinner was served with even more food and courses than lunch around 9 when all was said and done.
This morning began with Tai Chi (yes i attempted Tai Chi and I hope that a you tube video will never be available). Then breakfast (just eggs and toast) then off to an "surprising" cave and a pearl farm before returning to Hanoi.
If you ever have a chance to go to halong bay do not hesitate. It is one of the most fantastic places I have had the opportunity to visit. Unbelievable scenery, my iPhone camera absolutely does it no justice. The pics: my boat, sunset, a fishing village, the cave.

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