This morning I had an early pick up to see the sunrise at Ranthambore Fort which is in the national park. As we drove through the reserve we kept an eye out for tigers but did not see any. We were the first ones there this morning except for the peacocks and the people that live near the temple. My guide was on a mission which I didn't really understand until later. He kept hurrying me along while I desperately tried to take pictures of peacocks and peahens (wishing they would just stay still).
There is some debate when the fort was built, however, we will stick with mid 10th century. The park itself for many years was the hunting ground of the Maharajah's of Rajasthan. It's history very weakly summed up: It changed hands many times (forcibly). Inside the fort there are 3 Hindu temples (Ganesh, Shiva and I don't remember the 3rd), a mosque, and a Jain temple.
The most famous of these being the Ganesh temple. Ganesh is widely revered throughout India and beyond. He is seen as the remover of obstacles, supporter of the arts, sciences, intellect and wisdom. He is the god of learning, lord of success, prosperity, peace, and beginnings and usually worshipped first. He is easily recognizable because of his elephant head.
Shiva is known as the transformer and the destroyer and and was charged with destroying and and renewing the universe at periodic intervals. He is worshipped in a variety of forms: Lord of the Dance, Great God, and Divine Lord (source of all knowledge). He also has several "terrible" forms. He is revered as the source of the whole universe. He is usually pictured with 4 or more faces and has a third eye.
Jainism is an Indian religion that teaches a path to spiritual purity via "ahimsa" or nonviolence to all living things. The fundamental tenant of Jainism is that all things are linked to a universal chain of cause and effect (Encyclopedia Brittanica), karma. The goal is to stop the inflow of new karma and get rid of the already acquired karma. An example of Jain practice that is concrete is their diet. They are vegetarians and depending on if there is violence in obtaining milk, vegans. They do not eat root vegetables, onions, or garlic because pulling up the entire plant is seen as destructive. I can only think that this has to be excessively hard in rural India, if my experience of the markets and driving through is any indication, potatoes and onions seem to be staples and are everywhere.
The Ganesh temple is the farthest point from the entrance in the fort and it was now clear why my guide had been rushing. This particular temple is highly revered and I would guess from the poles in front of it (looked like the line for Space Mountain) that there are usually long lines. Random fact this is the temple that couples address letters to inviting Ganesh to their weddings.
My guide had succeeded, we were the first to arrive. He bought offerings and we removed our shoes and headed to the temple where I participated in praying to Ganesh.
Ganesh enjoys sweets, sweet smelling things, and the color red. The process of worshipping Ganesh requires 16 steps which as I experienced involved the following: We offered him flowers, almonds, and something in a newspaper wrapped package. They chanted mantras at various times while bells and gongs were ringing throughout. He was also offered water (I think his feet were washed) which was sprinkled on each of our faces and then poured in our hands to drink. We then had red paste placed on our third eye which was dashed with rice. There was bowing at various times. Towards the end we were each given a sweet to eat and more chanting, finally we all bowed once more and then made our way out.
It is hard to describe this appropriately (I will not do it justice) and that may be because I was filled with such a sense of awe during the whole experience. There was so much going on. The music of the bells and gongs, the people, the chanting, the smell of incense, the movement, the bright colors, the beautiful Ganesh in front of us, being at the edge of the fort in this place at sunrise on a beautiful crisp and clean morning, watching the unison, feeling the love and peace. The energy was wonderfully positive and continued to increase throughout. Being completely included in someone's faith is a very powerful thing and one I feel incredibly lucky to have experienced. I left with a heightened sense of beauty of this place and this country.
In other news: Yes I drank the water, held it in my mouth for as long as I could (I can't imagine spitting the temple would have been looked well upon. And then adopted the mantra the solution is dilution (hooray saliva) and swallowed.
After breakfast my guide to the fort promptly re-appeared (I wasn't expecting that) dressed in his driving clothing as opposed to the national park clothing (He would later appear as a waiter, chef, bellman, rickshaw driver, customs agent. Ha! No I am kidding this is just where my brain went after my eyes widen with his first reappearance). We were off to Jaipur. The one city I had no expectations for. The drive was beautiful and much like the other days. The people we passed were decorated as were the trucks and tractors. I asked him why the transport vehicles were so festive (picture Party City attacking large transport trucks with sparkly garlands and Pom poms.) and was told because because they want to beautify them. That is was not religious in nature.
3.5 hours later we arrived in the large and bustling city that is Jaipur. Jaipur is the capitol of the Indian state of Rajasthan and the largest city with 3.1 million. It was founded in 1726 by the Maharaja at that time. It was one of the first if not the first city to have distinct city planning. It was painted pink (the color of hospitality in 1876 to welcome the Duke of Wales. It is known for its handicrafts, luxurious textiles and jewelry and gemstones. People say that you will pay a premium but the quality you will find in Jaipur is unmatched.
We curved in and out of roads. And towards the end it became clear that the driver did not know where he was going. I become more and more thankful for international data plans. I put on google maps and the now British speaking chick of maps (I didn't change it. She changed on her own. When in Rome...) guided us to a highly gilded hotel (Gold and decorative thingamabobs everywhere. I felt like I was on a movie set. A reasonably good one where I just had to understand sarcasm and have an affinity for mustaches (the men of Rajasthan are famous for them, and the guy at the desk was no disappointment)). I checked in and got the pink room.
This hotel was exactly what I anticipated and was decorated as in the times of the Maharajas, who by all indications really wanted people to know they were fancy down to the tiniest corners. I wasted no time and hired a car for the afternoon to take me into the Pink City and to the palace. The whole afternoon cost 1000 rupees (about 15 dollars, which for the record is close to highway robbery and becomes important later).
I changed clothes because it was hot (about 95 degrees) and was off into the old city.
I briefly went to the Hawa Mahal, but did not go in because I was told it wasn't very interesting on the inside. Then on to the palace which was great. The royal family still lives in part of it. Inside the palace there was a textile museum that had antique clothing which was absolutely beautiful. In this museum I learned that the Indians had created the game that is modern day chess during the 6th century and that it was originally called Chaturanga. Many people know chaturanga as being a very difficult yoga pose that is usually done wrong. It means having 4 limbs.
The next museum I saw was the weapons museum. I now know what an Indian dagger is and wow, scary (no pictures were allowed here or in any of the museums within the palace). They had a great assortment of intricate and decorative but functional swords and armor. They also had horse armor. It was all very eye-catching.
I continued to stroll around the palace and found several beautiful courtyards but not before almost every employee or guard asked me for a tip along the way. In the largest courtyard there were two huge sliver jars. These hold the Guinness book of world records for largest silver jar.
After this the final museum exhibit was a hall of kings. It was were the kings used to receive guests and have gatherings. Much like the National Portrait Gallery in DC each Maharaja had a portrait done by an artist at that time. In front of each portrait was the history of his term.
Upon my exit I WhatsApp called the driver and he walked over to find me. He then convinced me to go to a textile store. Admittedly it wasn't a hard sell and before I knew it I was surrounded by beautiful saris being draped around me. Ok I was getting one. How could I not? This is completely useful. You absolutely never know when you might need a real live sari and wouldn't that be a pity if you didn't have one?
Here is the thing I believe none of that at this point in my life (that was me in my 20s). The fact is I just couldn't walk away from those beautiful fabrics. Well I almost could and then he pulled out one particular fabric and it was done. The fabrics in India might be my spirit animal (I don't subscribe to spirit animals usually, but the vibrant glitter and sparkle of these particular adornments embodies a combination of liveliness, hard work, joy and hope. Having been surrounded by such energy for a week, I kind of wanted to be a part of this magic. There is just something about India and its people. I can't put it into words, but I can try. The kindness, the smiles, the talent, the resilience, and the precision combined with the vivid imagery these same people create that somehow doesn't become spectacle is beyond imagination.).
The next room I was taken into was the clothing room. Rows and rows of floor to ceiling fabric (with only black fabric missing. Who needs black?) and the promise that almost anything I could dream up would be made and delivered to my hotel in 2 hours for under 10 dollars). I found myself being twirled and measured and wishing I had bought a really large suitcase. I also wished I had more time. I mean they could make anything. When a door of infinite possibility opens, my mind often goes completely blank (or maybe I was just being realistic?). What did I need? Ok. Nothing. What did I want? What did my sister need? Or my mom? Or any other relative or friend? I bought stuff much to the disdain of my suitcase (which still doesn't expand). I made a mental note: I can't buy anything else. This was it.
Next my driver took me to a gemstone factory where they cut and polished jewels. Immediately upon my arrival a 3 carat diamond was strapped around my neck and I was followed by a guy with mirrors so I could see how it sparkled. These guys were good, however they had way overestimated my price range. I repeatedly told the head dude who would make a great yoga mafia boss that I wasn't going to purchase it. His repeated response was for me to go into a side room with him so he could open my chakras to "make me happy enough" to buy it. If you are wondering what this means, I never found out. Apparently at least one of my chakras is closed making me unable to buy large diamonds and thus unhappy. His last ditch effort included offering to let me leave my credit card for collateral and wear it for a day. Fortunately I was saved by the bell. My driver told me I would be late to dinner. It was at that point I discovered my data plan was no longer working as we sped to the ITC so I could meet Chandi and Aman.
For dinner we headed to Choki Dhani, a local and international tourist destination that is south of the city. Choki Dhani is more than dinner. It has a ton of "attractions". We started with the fair games and friendly competition. There was a basketball shooting game where I failed as a tarheel, several rifle shooting games, darts, a ring toss, a milk bottle throw, and several more. Each game was 5 rupees per round (keep in mind 66 rupees is a dollar). We played them all and then were lured into the craftsman's village. We had each been individually told not to by anything, but there was this guy actually sewing things right there in front of us with BEEEEUUUUTIFFFULLL fabrics.
I bought two more pairs of pants. Aaacckkk. A bigger bag was fast becoming a reality. Chandi bought 3. They were all awesome. I spent a total of 5 dollars. After the second pants incident for both of us, Chandi bought two more pairs and then deeply considered some copper cups. It was time to exit the village for the safety of the airlines we were flying home.
We continued to wander and saw dancers, musicians, camel rides, temples, waterfalls, caves all in a Disney-esque style. Here was the history of Jaipur displayed in cartoon fashion. We were only about half way through when it was time for a our dinner. Dinner here is a sit down set menu at one of several arease. We had gone for the gold and picked the Royal table.
Dinner began with a buttermilk drink that I think had liquor in it. It wasn't my favorite. Next was a host of appetizers. This was followed by quite a large tray of things separated in small stainless steel bowls. The center bowl had what looked like dark brown oatmeal which the waiter immediately dumped sugar and ghee on. I tasted it but legitimately didn't like it (and disproved a basic tenet of life for many butter and sugar does not make everything edible/better). Around came the naan and I asked for no butter please. The waiter looked like me I had 3 heads and that was the most absurd request he had heard in years. The best part is he still tried to put butter on it anyway. Dinner was good, but what was better was the sitar player and the singing. It was lovely and fascinating. Dessert was khulfi, a traditional ice cream. After dinner we though about exploring the amusement part a little more but we since all had a 4 am wake up call so we decided to head home so we could be in bed by midnight.
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