Day 4: Onward to Base Camp

At around two am I woke up to use the restroom and saw the most beautiful starry night and the snowy mountain peak. I was definitely still in denial that I was going there maybe that any of us were going there. 

We woke up early again , breakfasted, and this time succeeded in being early to leave. Today would be important because the trail was more complicated and would require scrambling. Today's hike is one of the most beautiful hikes I have ever done.

 Also one of the most astounding watching the porters maneuver their heavy loads deftly up rocking climbs and tight areas. 

One part was called "kissing rock" where you hold tightly to the rock as you shimmy by. I watched and I still don't know how the porters do it. 

The porters by far have the hardest job on the mountain. We had 3 per person. They are limited to 20kg of climb gear and 5kg of personal gear. This is a relatively new rule.

The only weigh station is at the beginning of the trek and I am not sure how much attention they pay after things re weighed.  They make pennies for the job they do. Sometimes they only make 5 dollars for 6 days on the mountain. They get injured and sick. Several times we saw porters looking ill on our climb and several times out guide would take part of their load and give it back to them hours later. There are projects to support the porters and climbers can send a porter on scholarship to guide school.

Almost all guides start as porters. They heavily rely on their patrons tips, so if you hike Kilimanjaro tip well and choose a company that is known to treat their porters well.

The hike was more physically intense than any of the other days. It was a welcome change to use different muscles. We almost made it to base camp before the rain started. Lunch was ready for us when we arrived. 

There was a delicious potato soup that I would eat again for dinner. We all decided to take Diamox all having headaches and a spectrum of stomach issues.

Naps were insisted upon. Tonight we would wake up at midnight in order to be on the summit at sunrise. Dinner was serious but positive. No one are very much. I was uncertain if I would make it to the top despite encouragement and assurance that I would.

An 86 year old woman climbed it last year. I am not sure this information did much for me except make me respect her a lot. I was nervous. We all were. 

Off to the tents we went around 630pm to try to sleep. As I closed my eyes I heard The Biebers new album playing not so faintly from a tent near by (for the record it is pretty good). I fell asleep sometime after the 3rd song 

Today's hike: 4600m and 5 hours walking