So off I went trying not to speed but having a really difficult time with that goal because HOW DO YOU NOT SPEED WHEN YOU ARE GOING TO THE GRAND CANYON???
On arrival in Tuyasan, AZ (closest town outside the Grand Canyon's South Rim and consequently not known for its culinary creations as we would soon discover), I checked in unloaded and then drove the 5 miles into the park to find someone to chat with about possible hikes for the next several days.
On a mission I quickly found a woman at the visitors center who looked like she wanted to draw on maps for me (the visitor center closes around 5 and I was pushing it). She asked me what I wanted to do and I told her I wanted to hike to the river and back.
"We don't advise doing that, but do it anyway." (Add in a sigh and a the bubble over her head "America"). This was followed by me reassuring her that my friend and I were in "marathon shape" (I remain unsure what that means because people casually walk marathons and sometimes have heart attacks while attempting to finish them, but at the time I thought this seemed like solid evidence that we were up to the task.), had camelbacks, head lamps, nutrition bars... "we are ready." She at least didn't roll her eyes and commenced circling several of the maps and making a plan. Of note: most of her circles were places were we could get water (Over the next 24 hours she would repeatedly prove she really knew her stuff).
After that plan, I asked her for advice for a sunset hike for that day and off I went on an impromptu 5 miler to get to her favorite spot for sunset in an hour and 20 minutes. This was more difficult than it sounds because the amazingness of the Grand Canyon was absurdly distracting. I couldn't stop taking pictures or just looking at it. Finally I came across a mom and her son from Pensacola who were running to get to a sunset spot and thought I should probably get on it. We passed Hopi Point and the masses (Teens westward bound abounding and every other tourist bus that had dropped their tweens and chaperones and pealed out of there) and kept going to where the lady had suggested.
I watched the sunset with them from Pima Point and it was spectacular. After the sunset I started the hike back realizing that it was getting dark at what seemed to be like an expedient rate qand that my phone had less than 20% from all of the pictures I had taken and was going to be needed as a flash light in pretty short order. I made it most of the way back and found a bus station. The bus took me back a few miles before it had had enough of the very large high school group resembling a mosh pit and then dropped us off in some part of the park where I had never been. Needless to say it is good that I am comfortable with being completely lost. I eventually found my car with 4% battery to spare.
The next morning we woke about around 415 am and quickly got dressed and headed into the park. We hopped a bus to South Kaibab trail, turned our headlamps,and started the hike.
"We don't advise doing that, but do it anyway." (Add in a sigh and a the bubble over her head "America"). This was followed by me reassuring her that my friend and I were in "marathon shape" (I remain unsure what that means because people casually walk marathons and sometimes have heart attacks while attempting to finish them, but at the time I thought this seemed like solid evidence that we were up to the task.), had camelbacks, head lamps, nutrition bars... "we are ready." She at least didn't roll her eyes and commenced circling several of the maps and making a plan. Of note: most of her circles were places were we could get water (Over the next 24 hours she would repeatedly prove she really knew her stuff).
After that plan, I asked her for advice for a sunset hike for that day and off I went on an impromptu 5 miler to get to her favorite spot for sunset in an hour and 20 minutes. This was more difficult than it sounds because the amazingness of the Grand Canyon was absurdly distracting. I couldn't stop taking pictures or just looking at it. Finally I came across a mom and her son from Pensacola who were running to get to a sunset spot and thought I should probably get on it. We passed Hopi Point and the masses (Teens westward bound abounding and every other tourist bus that had dropped their tweens and chaperones and pealed out of there) and kept going to where the lady had suggested.
I watched the sunset with them from Pima Point and it was spectacular. After the sunset I started the hike back realizing that it was getting dark at what seemed to be like an expedient rate qand that my phone had less than 20% from all of the pictures I had taken and was going to be needed as a flash light in pretty short order. I made it most of the way back and found a bus station. The bus took me back a few miles before it had had enough of the very large high school group resembling a mosh pit and then dropped us off in some part of the park where I had never been. Needless to say it is good that I am comfortable with being completely lost. I eventually found my car with 4% battery to spare.
The next morning we woke about around 415 am and quickly got dressed and headed into the park. We hopped a bus to South Kaibab trail, turned our headlamps,and started the hike.
There were some people on the trail and 12 mules,
but definitely not the masses (as the lady had told me the day before). We got to Ooh Ah point and stopped and watched the sunrise.
We then continued our hike to the Canyon floor, phantom ranch (a campground) and then to the river.
We ate lunch at the river, a delicious spread comprised of Hummus veggie sandwiches and jerky. Before getting back on the trail, I assured my friend that I was good on water post lunch (there are times when I shouldn't be believed or even believe myself. This is one of those times).
And shortly after starting on Bright Angel Trail (not even a mile), I ran out of water. It would be more interesting if I would tell you I hallucinated and crawled until I made it to the next water station, but that would be an over dramatization. I just chastised myself and desperately missed humidity (my mouth was so dry I did begin to imagine that I sounded funny when I attempted to distract myself by chattering away as I tend to do. I likely didn't sound funny, just annoyed with my overconfidence that I had in no way already sucked down 2 liters of water by the time we finished lunch). The good news is there are 3 places for water on this trail, they are just a little higher up.
On bright angel we repeatedly ran into 4 of the same people (not very many were doing what we were doing. We were soon to discover there was good reason for this, because it is HARD and hot and America is out of shape.).
On bright angel we repeatedly ran into 4 of the same people (not very many were doing what we were doing. We were soon to discover there was good reason for this, because it is HARD and hot and America is out of shape.).
These people were two soon to be college sophomores from Phoenix (one who shared her sour patch watermelons which always wins friends in every situation), a dad who had let his kids go ahead and was convinced we were newly graduated from college (Ha! And hooray! Yoga? Running? Good genes? That period of four years in college where I only ate the lucky charms marshmallows?) and one guy who had run from the North Rim that morning to celebrate his birthday (he was late high school or early college and had left flagstaff at midnight to get to the north rim by sunrise). When we finally passed him, he looked tired and miserable and had taken a fall, but was determined to rim to rim in 8 ish hours which he successfully did.
The hike up was tough for a variety of reasons other than my tongue being glued to the roof of my mouth due to dehydration. There were the ones that you would expect: the steep switch backs, the mid day heat (107 is still hot even when there is no humidity for the record), and the lack of a breeze.
The hike up was tough for a variety of reasons other than my tongue being glued to the roof of my mouth due to dehydration. There were the ones that you would expect: the steep switch backs, the mid day heat (107 is still hot even when there is no humidity for the record), and the lack of a breeze.
There was also the one you wouldn't expect: both soles fell of my 2 year old Vasque hiking boots with over 2 miles left (#truestory). Maybe it was the heat? Maybe they just don't make 'em like they used to? Any way you slice it Vasque has responded to my email about their:
We made it to the top and rewarded ourselves with lunch (backpacker's stew and rainbow sherbet for me). At this particular restaurant they provided you with the calories and fat on the menu. I think they should have asked us what we hiked that day and when we said "Rim to river to rim." They should have given us the menus where in place of calories and fat it said "You deserve it. Eat it all."
After lunch there were naps and dinner at a Mexican restaurant with portion plates that I could have possibly used as a sled in the winter. Ironically no calories or fat listed there.
There have been a lot of rocks in my life this month from Angkor Wat to Thailand's coast to the Grand Canyon. All have been just plain astounding in different wonderful ways. I cannot wait to visit the Grand Canyon again and am pretty sure that it will be soon.
"WOMEN'S BACKPACKING BOOTS
Go ahead, push them to the edge. They'll perform as long as you do. These hardcore hiking boots are built just for a woman's foot, with advanced sole design, stout structural construction, and serious ankle support to help you push through that last mile without sacrificing comfort."
And is letting me ship them back. Fact: Boots without soles are not easy to hike in and hurt your feet. I made it to the top and immediately took off my shoes and asked for rubber bands at the front desk of one of the lodges to try to put the souls back on (it didn't work in a functional way but at least i wasn't carrying soles and shoes separately). I would think long and hard before I "pushed these shoes to the edge" or even around the corner if you will.We made it to the top and rewarded ourselves with lunch (backpacker's stew and rainbow sherbet for me). At this particular restaurant they provided you with the calories and fat on the menu. I think they should have asked us what we hiked that day and when we said "Rim to river to rim." They should have given us the menus where in place of calories and fat it said "You deserve it. Eat it all."
After lunch there were naps and dinner at a Mexican restaurant with portion plates that I could have possibly used as a sled in the winter. Ironically no calories or fat listed there.
There have been a lot of rocks in my life this month from Angkor Wat to Thailand's coast to the Grand Canyon. All have been just plain astounding in different wonderful ways. I cannot wait to visit the Grand Canyon again and am pretty sure that it will be soon.
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